We try to complete most repairs the same day. If this is not possible, we will provide you with an estimate on how long the repairs will take and work with you to get you back on the road quickly and safely!
We provide fair and honest pricing for all repairs and services. Talk to one of our service representatives today for an estimate on your repair and/or service cost.
- How you drive. Do you ease on the brakes, stepping gently on the brake pedal and then releasing? Or do you gun the engine only to slam on the brakes at the next light? Do you drive in more highway traffic or stop-and-go?
- The vehicle you’re driving. The engineering of a car or truck affects the longevity of the brakes, as does the quality of the brake pad installed at the factory. The metals and specifications used to manufacture a brake rotor can even affect how quickly it rusts in different climates or whether it can be machined after several years of service.
- The quality of the brake pads or rotors. If your last brake service was done at a high-quality repair shop, you should expect a long life out of the pads and rotors. But if a shop installed cheap pads or rotors and didn’t lubricate the caliper slides, you’ll likely need service sooner than later.
Fortunately, your car will give you any number of signs that you need to bring your vehicle in for a brake inspection. These include:
- You hear the brakes squeaking or squealing when you apply or release the brake pedal.
- The red dashboard brake light turns on and off intermittently, especially during hard stopping or on sharp turns.
- You hear a grinding and/or feel a pulsation in the brake pedal or steering wheel when you brake.
- Your brake pedal is too mushy or too firm when you press on it.
- Your vehicle pulls to one side when you brake.
In some cases, the dashboards on today’s cars can light up brighter than a holiday tree. Whether you see one warning light or five, it can be unnerving and leave you unsure of what to do first.
Here’s what we recommend:
- Keep your owner’s manual in the glove compartment so you can look up any warning lights that are unfamiliar. There are so many lights in today’s vehicles that it’s nearly impossible to memorize what they’re all for.
- Pull over safely ASAP if you see any of these lights: Oil Pressure, Engine Temperature or Low Coolant, Powertrain Malfunction.
- Drive directly to your auto repair shop without turning the vehicle off if you see any of these lights: Battery or alternator, ‘Check Engine’ or ‘Service Engine Soon’ that is flashing, a combination of multiple warning lights.
- Schedule an appointment at your earliest convenience when one of these lights comes on: ‘Check Engine’ or ‘Service Engine Soon’ that is not flashing, Brake, Tire Pressure Monitor, Parking Brake, Airbag, Traction Control, Light Bulb Failure or Maintenance Due.
If your engine uses conventional motor oil, we recommend changing the oil every 3,000 miles or every 6 months.
Many new cars today come from the factory with synthetic engine oil. For those vehicles, we recommend changing the oil every 5,000 miles or every 6 months.
Many new cars today come from the factory with synthetic engine oil. If that’s the case, you must continue to use synthetic oil.
If your car uses conventional engine oil, you may want to consider changing over to synthetic oil if you:
- Want to extend your oil change intervals beyond 3,000 miles.
- Use your vehicle to tow a boat, camper, etc.
- Use your vehicle to plow.
- Idle extensively, such as in extreme stop-and-go traffic or like a cab would idle.
As with brakes, the life of your tires varies according to:
- How you drive. Are you a cautious driver who eases on the gas and brakes and takes turns at a conservative speed? Or do you aspire to be the next NASCAR superstar?
- The vehicle you’re driving. The engineering of a car or truck affects the life of the tires, as does the quality of the tires installed at the factory.
- The type of tire on the vehicle. If your vehicle is equipped with run-flat, low profile or performance tires, they will inevitably have a shorter tread life than a set of all-season tires on a basic sedan.
- The condition of the suspension & steering systems. Worn suspension and steering parts wear out your tires unevenly and prematurely.
- The wheel alignment. Like your steering and suspension systems, a vehicle that’s out of alignment can wear your tire tread unevenly and prematurely. Choose a repair shop like My Mechanic that will keep an eye on things like this for you and warn you before the tires are too far worn.
There are a number of signs that you need new tires. These include:
- The tread is less than 2/32 inch deep on any one part. This is the minimum legal thickness. We actually recommend you replace the tires at closer to 3/32 inch or 4/32 inch. If you need to brake in an emergency, your car will stop about 100 feet sooner with 4/32 inch of tire tread than with 2/32 inch. This can be the difference between a heart-pounding emergency stop and a vehicle collision.
- The tire tread or sidewalls are dry and cracked; in other words, dry-rotted.
- There’s a bubble in any portion of the sidewall.
If your wheels need to be balanced, you will likely notice:
- A vibration from the wheels, typically in the steering wheel, at certain highway speeds. If you go faster or slower, the vibration disappears.
- The tire tread is wearing unevenly.
If your wheels need to be aligned, you’ll likely notice:
- The tire tread is wearing unevenly.
- The steering wheel is crooked even when you’re driving on a straight road.
- The vehicle consistently pulls to the left or to the right.
